Diamond Anatomy
Table Size: The
table is the top horizontal facet of the diamond. The average table size is
expressed as a percentage of the diamond’s average girdle diameter. While an
‘Excellent’ grade diamond will have a table size between 52 and 62 percent,
other proportions are important too. Remember that GIA doesn’t consider
individual proportions in isolation.
Total Depth: The
diamond’s overall depth from the surface of the table to the culet, expressed
as a percentage of the average girdle diameter.
Pavilion Depth: The
pavilion is the lower portion of a diamond from the bottom edge of the girdle
to the culet. The pavilion depth is expressed as a percentage of the average
girdle diameter. A pavilion depth that’s too shallow or too deep will allow
light to escape from the side or bottom of the stone. A well-cut diamond will
direct more light upward through the crown.
Pavilion Angle: Pavilion
angle is another important dimension of the stone, especially as it relates to
a diamond’s brightness. It is the average of the angles formed by the diamond’s
pavilion main facets and its girdle plane. This should fall between 40.6 and
41.8 degrees to be considered “Excellent,” providing other parameters also fit
their proper ranges.
Crown Height: The
crown is the upper portion of the diamond, from the top edge of the girdle to
the table. The average crown height is expressed as a percentage of the average
girdle diameter. It can affect both the dispersion and brightness of a diamond.
Crown Angle: The
crown angle is the angle that’s formed where the bezel facets meet the girdle
plane. The crown angle in a well-cut diamond will be within 31.5 to 36.5
degrees. The crown angle has a large effect on the face-up appearance of a
round brilliant cut diamond. The best range of crown angles provide a route for
exiting light dispersion, as well as additional contrasting directions for
entering light. Star Length: The horizontally projected distance from the point
of the star facet to the edge of the table, relative to the distance between
the table edge and the girdle edge. A well-cut diamond will range between 40 to
70 percent, when other parameters are within the correct ranges
Girdle Thickness: The girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow
section separating the crown from the pavilion, and functions as the diamond’s setting
edge. The girdle thickness is described as a range from its thinnest to
thickest areas. A thick girdle is less desirable because it unnecessarily adds
weight to the stone where it matters the least (making the diamond appear
smaller). An extremely thin girdle is sometimes referred to as a knife-edge,
and results in a diamond that is more fragile and susceptible to chipping.
Therefore, a girdle that is “medium to slightly thick” is preferred.
Lower Girdle / Half Facet Length: This ratio is measured by calculating how
long the lower girdle facets are relative to the length of the pavilion. This
defines the contrast of a round brilliant cut diamond, which controls the
brilliance of a diamond. The well-cut diamond will range between 65 to 90
percent. Diamonds with longer lower half facets will have a little more
scintillation.
Culet: The culet is the
small facet at the bottom of a diamond intended to prevent chipping and
abrasion to the point. The culet size can affect face-up appearance and it’s described
as the average width of the facet. Size is expressed as none, very small,
small, medium, slightly large, large, very large, and extremely large. When
there is no culet, it is sometimes referred to as a pointed culet. Preferably
the culet will not be visible with the unaided eye, and when described as none
(no culet), very small or small on a GIA report, it falls in the excellent
range.
Now that you understand diamond proportions, you’re one third of
the way to learning about the factors that influence a diamond’s cut grade.
We’ll cover finish, polish, and symmetry in later posts.
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