WHAT IS KUNDAN JEWELRY
Kundan
jewelry is one of the oldest forms of jewelry making technique in India.
Contrary to popular perception,
Kundan jewelry isn’t really characterized by its stones and gems. Rather,
Kundan refers to extremely refined gold that is rarely solid.
Origin
of Kundan jewelry
It is
believed that Kundan jewelry first originated in India in Delhi during the
Mughal period. Back then, the royal class used to adorn intricate pieces of
Kundan jewelry. However, at a later stage, artisans moved to Rajasthan.
Over a
period of time, a whole cluster of Kundan artisans settled in Rajasthan. That’s
when Rajasthan got the reputation of making the finest Kundan jewelry in India.
Today, the cities of Bikaner and Nathdwara are well known for their Kundan
jewelry.
How is Kundan jewelry
made?
Making of Kundan jewelry follows a
very intricate process. It is a long process with each stage handled by a
separate, skilled worker.
It starts with beating of
gold in a very thin sheet. This acts as the base for the jewelry. This
sheet is then filled with lac, or laakh. Lac is a byproduct of tree sap and
known to be a natural resin. It is in this lac that the stones or gems are set
with a help of hot coal.
In order to give the stones a strong
grip on the metal, 24 carat melted gold is poured into the sides.
This 24 carat gold is what is known as Kundan, and hence the name. Kundan is
poured, or rather inserted in the holes with the help of a very small stick.
Parallel to this process of setting
the stones is the process of making the frame of the jewelry. Frame of the
jewelry refers to whether it is being made as earrings, necklaces, pendants
etc. Once the frame is made, it is then welded to the base with the
help of gold.
At the end of the whole process, the
jewelry piece if then cleaned and washed to remove dark spots due to welding.
Sometimes, to make the jewelry look
even more intricate, Meenakari is done on it. Meenakari refers to the art of
engraving on metal. Traditionally, Meenakari is done on gold only. However, in
recent years, it is being done on metals such as copper etc. too.
Imitation
Kundan jewelry – a budget friendly alternative
With the price of gold touching the roof, not many people
can afford to buy traditional Kundan jewelry. That’s what led to the rise of
imitation Kundan jewelry.
Imitation Kundan jewelry is nothing
but copied Kundan designs, sans the expensive 24 carat gold. Thus, you get the
same intricate design and beautiful ornaments without the exorbitant price of
gold.
Picking out imitation from
real – Kundan jewelry shopping tips
There are people out there who will
try to sell you imitation Kundan jewelry for the price of a real, traditional
piece. It takes a trained eye to differentiate fake from real. However, if you
are going for Kundan jewelry shopping, here are a few tips
that might help you save yourself from getting robbed:
1.
Check for stamps on jewelry. It cuts
down on the risk of fake.
2.
If the jewelry turns black or green
after wearing it for some time, it is not gold. On the other hand, if you
purchased silver jewelry and it does not turn black after weeks of wearing, it
is not real silver.
3.
Hold a magnet close to your
ornament. If the magnet is attracted to it, the jewelry is fake.
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